Granite tiles outside installation

Granite is an eco-friendly material that is built to last. Your new granite countertops will look fabulous. But how do you keep them looking that way? Talk to the installer to see if the countertops require a seal. Sunshine and rain will naturally wash away stains from food, but if the surface is absorbent then you will want to apply some kind of sealer to prevent spills from things like wine or mustard from leaving behind a long-term mark.

Otherwise for general cleaning, you should be able to hose off your granite countertops and then use a non-abrasive detergent to remove surface dust and dirt that builds up from pollen, food spills, and other bits of general outdoor grime. A good way to slow down the buildup of gunk on your counters is to leave them covered when not in use if your outdoor kitchen is not covered by any kind of a roof or awning.

Sun, rain, hail, and snow will take a toll on your countertops. Just like natural stone that wears down over time from exposure to the elements, granite countertops in an outdoor kitchen will wear down over time, too. Keeping them covered and having them re-surfaced on an as-necessary basis will go a long way toward extending their longevity though. Ask your countertop installer if you can test a sample of the slab you like to make sure that it will not be too absorbent or, which is very rare, react to foods or liquids with acidic properties.

Some granite countertops weather faster than others. This means that the shiny polish that makes the countertop look so attractive might wear away at varying lengths of time.

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A wet tile saw makes short work of cutting granite tile. Water running across the blade and cutting area keeps the tile cool, so it cuts easier. Plus, the water holds down dust and sharp tile chips. If you do not own a wet tile saw, you can rent one by the day or week at most rental yards and at some home centers. Granite tile is far less expensive to purchase and install than slab granite. Cutting granite tile on the wet tile saw requires hearing and eye protection.

Be sure to keep the water constantly flowing over the cutting area to prevent stone dust and shards from flying. With the cordless drill, screw the plywood onto the cabinets. For a foot length of countertop, cut one 2-foot and one 8-foot section of plywood, each 24 inches wide or the depth of your countertops. Cement backer board is 5 feet long and 3 feet wide. Cut the width down to 2 feet. Cut cement backer board by scoring it several times with a utility knife, then snapping the two sections apart.

Using the trowel with the notched side, spread thinset on the plywood. Lay the cement backer board in the thinset. Screw the cement board into the plywood with screws every 10 inches. Sink the heads of the screws. Because the edges of the plywood and cement board will be exposed, your tile countertop will need edging.

Apply the edging pieces along the edges of the plywood and cement board base. Embed the edging pieces in thinset. Wrap three or four pieces of tape over each skirt piece to hold it in place until the thinset fully dries.

Start with one edging piece that is half as long as the others 6 inches. This helps you establish a series of seam lines that will be off-set or staggered from the countertop seam lines.

After the edge pieces are in place, remove the supporting tape.