Installing softplug motor chevy
They are provided by good parts houses nationally. Atwater Mike , Sep 9, Joined: Feb 6, Posts: 15, Profile Page. DDDenny , Sep 9, Joined: Feb 15, Posts: Profile Page. I have the dipstick plug for the passenger side. I will measure it tomorrow and see if it will fit. I have no use for it. If it will work I can send it out to you. DC40 , Sep 9, Hey Fellas, I got great ideas and it helped me sort out my options and approach with the builder. This thread has turned into a monster.
I appreciate all the knowledge, and offers to help. I got the intake and the head off. A bunch of threads back, somebody, suggested I would find this plug, and that the oil would have been shooting out, if it had not been there.
He was right on. I actually, lucked out, that this was tapped and plugged already. My expectation was that I had a hole, in a built, installed engine, with no plug, and no way to fix it without metal shavings in the engine, or trying to locate or fabricate a plug. Had this all been addressed before the build, it would have been an easy tap and plug. Anyway, my builder came out last night. Confirmed the plug was deep, confirmed he made an error, and suggested that the depth of the plug took off a lot of the thread sealer on the way down, and what was there, was undoubtedly baked out in cleaning.
What he did. Deep plug was pulled, and block threads were cleaned and blown off as much as possible. A new plug was then inserted with and anaerobic thread sealer, and tightened.
This plug was so deep, that the decision was made to set an additional shortened plug in the hole. He measured the remaining hole depth, and ground another pipe plug down, so it would not crown out of the hole and impede the head. At this point the hole was effectively sealed off from the galley, so the remaining hole was cleaned with brake cleaner, and immediately blow out with air.
He then coated the threads of the additional short plug with The Right Stuff, drove it home, and topped it off flush with the block, with Right Stuff. Finished assembly this morning, started, and the oil leak was sealed.
The bad news is that I found another leak from the galley hole just above the oil filter. This galley was also tapped, with a plug, so I pulled, cleaned, and applied new sealer. Waiting for it to fully cure, and will try again. Learned a lot from you fellas. I should have asked more questions on the board before I found a builder. Thanks again for your help! When you use a pipe thread tap you need to use a tapered pipe tap reamer first in those straight holes Then it all works well DND.
Glad it's fixed. Joined: Nov 24, Posts: 1 Profile Page. Ok Guys I have a installed in a ,55 belair At first I thought it was leaking from the oil pressure sending unit located behind the distributor. After checking it and tightening all it still leaked There is no plug at all located below the head but there is a small hole Rick Dennis , Nov 24, Joined: Feb 16, Posts: 1, Profile Page.
Remove hood at least to ease your working area. Pull the whole top of engine off until you get down to the "leaky hole". Use plenty of Brakleen to clean and blow out trash.
Follw all the suggestions in above post. Unlike a Ford FE engine where the cam plug actually goes into the block cup side first or facing in, the cam plugs for the Y are designed to be installed with the cup side facing the rear of the engine.
When installing the camshaft in the block and without the cam gear yet installed, the front face of the camshaft is expected to fall behind the front of the block or behind the cam thrust plate at least 0. If it does this, then the cam plug is installed correctly and not too deeply into the block.
The Buick 3. The engine contains two freeze plugs, one one either side. They are located between the core plugs on the engine block. Removing the freeze plugs is relatively straight forward. But take care not to push the freeze plug into the engine block because it will make removal much more difficult.
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