Installing pi heads mustang

Seat the nipple evenly in the bore. Try to do this as evenly as possible because it is an interference fit. I used a layer of clearcoat on damaged parts of the new tube it was scraped in a few spots during transit and polished it with NuFinish. Find the large bracket on the rear of the RH cylinder head.

There are 2 vacuum hoses attached to a sensor that has a wiring harness attached EGR Transducer, or the Differential Feedback valve Remove the wiring harness, and remove the nut that is holding that one side of the sensor.

The other end clips onto the bracket. The grounding strap will be held down by a nut on a stud. This stud also holds down the coolant tube. Remove the nut that holds the ground strap and set the strap aside. Remove the stud from the coolant tube. Disconnect the heater core hose to the tube, and pull the tube from the nipple. Finagle the tube a little and remove from the vehicle. Lubricate the nipple o-rings with anti-freeze. In order to keep the bracket for the sensor and implement it on the new coolant tube, I used a Sawz-All to chop the stock bracket off at the NPI coolant tube keeping the bolt hole intact.

I sanded and rounded off the edges, painted with exhaust paint, and bolted it with the new PI coolant tube. Torque the bolt and stud not the ground strap nut to 22 ft-lbs. Install the ground strap and bracket. Clean the gasket sealing surfaces on the cylinder heads and make sure the intake ports do not have debris. Vacuum if necessary. Clean off the old thread sealant and apply new sealant or Teflon tape. Please note that the sensor has a tapered thread, do not use monster force to torque it down.

Tighten it down enough so that nothing leaks. Now would be a good time to perform any TB or plenum upgrades. Take the PI gaskets and remove the locating nubs on the bottom side of the gaskets. Apply RTV around the coolant ports on the front and the rear of the gasket. Slide the new intake over the gaskets making sure not to smear the RTV and finally drop it down. Install the crash bracket, making sure you hand tighten the big long bolt first to snug it down.

Torque the bolt and stud to 22 ft-lb. Then start working the intake manifold bolts: Install the T-stat, O-ring, Housing, and then the bolts in that order. Apply anti-seize to the t-stat bolts and torque to 18 ft-lbs using the new included t-stat housing, or Motorcraft RH The reason is the alternator, when fully seated, may contact the T-stat housing unless you rotate it a bit out of the way.

This will not affect the o-ring seal since its still pushing down on the O-ring. Lubricate the O-rings with a thin coat of engine oil dino 5W will work. The fuel rail studs should be torqued to 79 in-lb. Install the ignition coil packs over the spark plugs, making sure you use plenty of dielectric silicone grease on the electrode for the spark plug.

Slip the heater core hose over the coolant tube on the intake manifold and make sure the hose clamp is properly installed. Torque down the EGR bolts to 16 ft-lb, and the 5 plenum bolts to a max of in-lb. In case I do not mention additional torque specs, anything that bolts onto the brass fittings in the Dupont Zytel Nylon intake manifold have a max torque of in-lb, nothing more!!

Anything that bolts onto the block will generally have a max of 22 ft-lb of torque water pump bolts, alternator to block bolts, rear cylinder head bracket bolts, etc Install the vacuum hoses, reconnect all electrical harnesses, and reconnect the throttle cable and speed control cables.

To install the throttle cable, open up the throttle and slip the cylinder in making sure the cable goes into the track. Make sure the tranny dipstick is fully seated it can pop out when working on the back part of the engine.

Install the 2 bottom alternator bolts and seat the alternator against the block. Torque the bottom bolts to 22 ft-lb. Install the new alternator bracket or modified alternator bracket and torque the 4 top bolts to in-lb in a cross pattern.

Have about 0. Wait at least hours and then start the engine and check for leaks vacuum or fluid. This means leave those weekend-warrior cams to the drag racers with lots of gear, aftermarket heads, and free-flowing exhaust. Instead, stick with mild, but effective, profiles that will offer power gains not just at high rpm, but throughout the desired rev range. While normally aspirated cam choices are difficult enough, pick up just about any book on the subject of forced induction and skip to the chapter on camshafts.

Likely as not, the recommendation will be to run stock cams or at least to stay away from the dreaded duration or overlap that can cause precious boost to escape past the exhaust valves. While blowers and turbos work fine on stock motors equipped with stock cam profiles, they just like their normally aspirated counterparts respond well to more aggressive cam timing.

In fact, for most street applications, the camshaft chosen for a mild, normally aspirated motor will work equally well with a supercharger. Sure, you can tailor the specific cam timing for supercharged use, but the gains will be minimal at most mild boost and power levels run on the street compared to a normally aspirated performance cam.

This is good news for enthusiasts, as choosing the right cams for a blower motor is as easy as selecting them for a normally aspirated motor, and, in many cases, are actually the very same cams.

In most cases, the cam manufacturers list their applications and many have included profiles for forced-induction motors. This means you can install performance cams in your normally aspirated Two-Valve combination and then save up for that supercharger without fear of having to swap the cams again. For some reason, many mod-motor owners have steered clear of cam swaps, fearing the overhead cam configuration. Know that swapping cams in a 4.

As is usually the case, stock cam profiles leave something to be desired in terms of maximizing power. The stock Two-Valve cams were never designed with maximum power production in mind, and as such, there's plenty of power to be had from a set of performance cams. It's possible to add performance cams to your 4.

The modular motors respond well to aggressive cam timing, though the Two-Valve motors are ultimately head-flow limited, so ultra-wild cam profiles will be less beneficial than on the free-flowing Four-Valve motors. Don't fear cam swaps on a mod motor, just take things slow and have the factory manual handy as a reference. In a day or so, your motor will be up and running with a nasty new attitude. While cam swaps certainly offer power gains, they can be further maximized after degreeing the cams.

In the case of modular motors, the cams on the right bank of cylinders are not always in alignment with the cams on the left when they leave the factory. On Four-Valve motors, we've measured differences in intake cam timing of 9 degrees one cam was 9 degrees retarded relative to the other.

Differences in cam timing on the Two-Valve motor will affect both the intake and exhaust side to side. Naturally, one setting will produce more power than the other, but the real concern is that the two banks of cylinders produce different power. Obviously, this unbalanced power production is not desirable, but the only way to cure it is to degree and adjust synchronize the cam timing side to side.

The power production can be further enhanced by advancing or retarding the cams in unison, to find optimum power. Additional gains will likely come at the expense of power production elsewhere in the curve, as advancing the cams, especially the intake, will likely improve low-speed power, while retarding them will have the opposite effect.

If you come away with anything from this article, it should be that wilder-than-stock cam timing does indeed improve power. That really should come as no surprise. After all, why would cam companies go to such trouble to design and build cam profiles if they didn't add any power?

In reality, the question isn't so much whether performance cams will add power, but more of which cam is the right one for your application? Torque production gets into serious swing around 2, rpm. Not that we condone that sort of behavior…. For owners of Ford 4. They were the first true aftermarket performance heads for the Two-Valvers.

The short blocks can handle up to horsepower with no modifications. Camshafts , induction systems, headers, superchargers, and other hop-up parts are on the shelves. Add in the airflow provided by the Trick Flow heads and you have the perfect storm of serious Two-Valve horsepower. Those heads are still available in myriad versions for street and drag racing.

These changes unshroud the valves to increase airflow volume and help promote more complete combustion. Trick Flow took a similar approach with the Twisted Wedge heads. This design also limits camshaft size due to valve-to-piston clearance with the factory dished pistons.

Trick Flow engineers moved the intake valves to the opposite intake side of the head. The design also accommodates wide cams up to degrees duration. That is a significant improvement over the stock 4. The Twisted Wedge heads retain the port shapes and locations of the factory Power Improvement PI heads, so PI-compatible intakes and headers can be used. However, Trick Flow opened up the intake runners to cc and recontoured them to smooth out the airflow path.

The intake and the 93cc exhaust runners are as-cast, but are based on CNC-ported profiles. The process is a Trick Flow exclusive.

Factory 4. The cams ride directly on the journals. If the valvetrain lets go and the journals are damaged, the heads turn into aluminum doorstops. Trick Flow developed a forged powdered metal, four-bolt cam journal precisely located on the head and completely removable.

If the caps are ever damaged, you can ring up Trick Flow for a set of replacements and put your Twisted Wedge heads back into service. The Twisted Wedge heads are available with your choice of 38cc or 44cc CNC-profiled combustion chambers with 1. The 38cc chambers yield about compression on a PI short block; the 44cc chambers deliver the same compression ratio for non-PI short blocks. The heads come fully assembled with stainless valves, 1. The standard Twisted Wedge heads come with springs rated at 90 lbs.

The springs can handle up to. TFX fuel injectors, an SFI-approved harmonic damper, and a timing chain kit with adjustable crank gears. The net worth of all this stuff is around horsepower—over horsepower more than a stock 4.

Have a Ford truck, F with , mi. Please contact me at your earliest convenience at Thanks again for your time and help. Sincerely John T Elliott. Pingback: Trick Flow headers on a 4. I want to get my heads ported and polished on my 97 cougar xr7 with a 4. Would the same heads made for a GT work for my motor? Yes, the TF heads will work.